Reviews-at-a-Glance

It takes more than a 2008 Mazda Protege 5 picture to come close to the experience of actually driving a new Protege 5.

The standard on the American road is Mercury. We are overjoyed to present the 2008 Mercury Sable, Marauder, Mountaineer reviews, accessories, and pictures for your evaluation and enjoyment.

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Here are 10 basic maintenance steps which are both simple and inexpensive. You can choose to perform them yourself or have them done by a professional. For newer cars, dealers are often best equipped to handle the needs of your specific automobile. However many cheaper alternatives exist.

1. Check your engine oil bimonthly.

Look for the sticker from you last oil change to find out the appropriate viscosity. Most cars use 10-30W, but it depends on where you live and your local climate. To check your oil, look for the dipstick marked or embossed with 'engine oil' or some other similar indicator. Older cars are not marked, so look for a dipstick located on the side or front of the engine. When you pull it out, it should be dark and look and smell like oil. Review your owner's manual on how to read your individual dipstick. Most are marked clearly. Add oil as needed. Do not overfill your engine! Take it to a shop before adding more if you are not sure. Only add oil where the oil filler cap is located. It will be embossed with a picture of an oil can, or pour spout with oil, or will say 'oil fill' on it. If you cannot locate it, read your owner's manual. Do not add oil if you are not sure where you are putting it, or if you are not sure it is low.

2. Change your Oil Regularly.

Follow your manufacturer's recommendations. The general rule of thumb is every 3-4K miles. However, refer to your owner's manual to verify your specific make and model requirements for frequency and viscosity.

3. Check your battery.

Look for the 'indicator'. The battery will indicate the appropriate indicator color. If the battery indicator is clear, it's probably time to add distilled water. The caps normally screw off, and a quarter will work best. Fill each of the six openings until the distilled water reaches the bottom of the tube, which descends into the cylinder. If there is acid build up on the terminals (yucky white powder) then spray it with WD-40. This will neutralize the acid. Do not touch this powder, it can cause acid burns to your skin. If you cannot access your battery cylinders because they are sealed, take it to a shop. You will likely have dead battery soon. Note that acid build up (the powder) often indicates a leaking battery. I would also recommend taking it to a shop to be inspected.

4. Check you windshield washer reservoir.

This stuff is cheap. It normally never exceeds $1.99 per gallon. The reservoir is found by looking for the cap with a windshield wiper/washer embossment on the plastic lid. Make sure you have the correct reservoir. You can improvise solutions if you do not have any premixed from the store. However, I strongly recommend you use the store bought solutions. To make the solution at home, mix 1 part rubbing alcohol to 4 parts distilled water. Tap water will work, but is not recommended because it contains minerals and can eventually lead to buildup and plug the lines to the windshield spray mechanisms.

5. Check your brake fluid.

The reservoir for brake fluid is not always as readily located. The reservoirs are normally located against the back of the engine compartment, or fire wall. Often, they sit atop a large black round cylinder. That is the master brake cylinder. On the sides of the brake fluid reservoir you will see a full or maximum line. If yours is below that line, buy a brake fluid consistent with your manufacturer's specifications. Normally that will be a 'Dot 3, or Dot 4' fluid. Any brand is sufficient. Using a rag, wipe off the reservoir, removing as much dirt as possible. You do not want to get dirt in the brake system. Remove the cap. Some screw off, some have brackets, they all differ. Again, if you are not sure, refer to your owner's manual.

6. Check the clutch fluid if you have a standard transmission.

It normally will be directly next to the brake fluid reservoir and require exactly the same (brake Dot 3 or 4) fluid and process for filling.

7. Check your automatic transmission fluid.

I recommend you review your owner's manual before performing this task. On newer cars with automatic transmissions, the dipstick usually says 'Trans Fluid', or 'Transmission Fluid'. Make sure you have been driving the car and it is fully warmed up. Move the car through several gears, park, reverse, drive. With the engine still running and in the "park" position with brake on, pull out the dipstick and wipe it off with a clean rag, reinsert it into the tube, pause for a few seconds and check. There hopefully will be some fluid on the stick. If so, review for where it is. If you look closely at the stick, it will indicate what marking requires adding fluid. If it is low, I recommend you take it to your auto mechanic to verify. You do not want to overfill your transmission, but you do want to make sure enough is inside. It is critical to the longevity of your transmission.

 If you have an older car, look underneath the car for leaks. If it leaks fluid which is more translucent than oil and looks like cough syrup, touch it. If it smells kind of oakey, then it's probably transmission fluid. Take your car to the shop as soon as possible. The smallest leaks can, but don't always, lead to long-term trouble. Older car dipsticks for transmissions are also harder to find. If your owner's manual doesn't tell you, then take it to a garage.

8. Change your automatic transmission fluids and standard transmission gear oils as required by the manufacturer.

Like your engine oil, these are the lifeblood of your transmissions. It is critical they maintain viscosity and appropriate cleanliness. Many of my friends assumed that because they have a standard transmission they need not get the fluid changed. Often (like with my Honda Del Sol) it is recommended every 30K miles. Automatic transmission fluids are becoming more durable, and some new cars, like some Ford Models, require no fluid changes for over 100K miles. That does not mean the fluid should not be checked and inspected for leaks during normal service intervals. Assume nothing.

9. Check your coolant.

Never remove your radiator cap if the car has been running. That should normally not require removal to check coolant levels. There should be a reservoir marked 'engine coolant only'. That reservoir will have minimum and maximum line, or add and full line. Add is minimum and full is maximum. Check the car only when cold and before starting for the first time. This is your most accurate reading. Review your owner's manual for the type of coolant formula your car requires. NOT ALL CARS CAN USE JUST ANY TYPE OF COOLANT! You can severely damage your car by not following your manufacturer's guidelines.

10. Change your coolant.

Your owner's manual will provide you a schedule. Follow it. This will ensure longevity of a cooler running automobile and the life of your cooling system. If you have an older car, most mechanics recommend having a cooling system flush every 30K miles.